Use a dark foundation by two shades of your skin colour. Its job is to create shadows, to slim, minimize and hollow. So, it should essentially be matte as any sheen would catch the light and bring it to the fore.
Its job is to pick out your ‘high’ spots like your cheek bones, brow bones chin and the centre of your nose. They can be peach, ivory or white with silver or gold sheen.
Slimming a Plump Face : Shade the temple hollows just in front of the hairline and create more definite hollows under the cheek bones. Apply highlighter on the brow bone, blending up beyond the brow itself to bring the bone forward. Highlight and cheekbone from its highest point along towards the hairline.
Shortening a Long Face : Blend shader from just under the chin slightly upwards onto the chin mound. Shade the forehead at the temples, working around to the hairline and gradually fading out at mid-brow. Lightly shade around the jaw line. Highlight the cheekbones and brow bones.
Softening a Square Face : Shade the four corner ‘angles’ of the face-the temples, following the hairline round just onto the brow, the squares of the jawbone from below the ears to either side of the chin. Highlight the lower half of the chin, the centre brow down the nose and the cheek bones.
Slimming a Wide Face : Blend the shaders either side of the bridge deep into the inner eye corners and fairly either side of the nose itself. Slim the nostrils by shading into the creases. Highlight all along the centre of the nose.
Softening a Pointed Chin :