Day One of the two-day Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) 5 on Tuesday evening seemed to drag on for longer than the actual four hours, owing largely to unexciting collections.
Besides the arrival of Labels’ shop-the-runway online, there were no international buyers present at the show, which meant that the designs should have at least appealed to onlookers on either side of the ramp.
Ahsan’s Global Remix used print with embroidered and embellished pieces to create a colorful and beautiful parade. Midriff-bearing embellished cholis and short shirts were paired with saris and loose pants in jazzy prints of fuchsia, aqua and orange. The combinations were feminine and funky, with the silver sequins working well against the pink clusters of embroidered flowers.
Ayesha Hasan’s collection Zilji inspired by Islamic Moroccan architecture comprised prints in beautiful autumn hues of burnt orange, pale green, rust and red. The side swept, tousled braids and elegant maatha pattis added to the demure look Ayesha was going for. A short black coat full of maroori and vasli work in gold over a strapless printed jumpsuit in teal was breathtaking.
Aamna’s collection Finding Glory was indeed a glorious show of black and gold with some delicious leg action, reminiscent of Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection. Cropped black jackets with gold work embellishments were paired with either a long gold dress or black leather tights and gold accents. Three cheers for Aamna — the best of day one!
You can always trust Maheen Khan to present a well-tailored collection that leaves you amazed at how well she can use simple, unembellished fabric with sophistication. Her FPW5 collection titled Flight was a tribute to species of birds that face the threat of extinction. In navy, camel, silver and gold hues, Maheen used mostly chiffons and silks to make shirts varying in length between the waist and knee.
A beautiful pinky-orange hue, silver and gold sequins, floral prints on an ivory base and net coats dominated the ramp for this show. But there was nothing too luxurious about debut designer Zari Faisal’s Plush collection; the floral print and sheer coat-over-shirt combos were not innovative or well-stitched. While most designers stayed clear of the floor-skimming lengths, Zari preferred to keep them for her floral print flared shirt.
After raising expectations at FPW4 with a fantastic collection, Bani D’s Colour-Washed Layers collection this time was unimposing. Some short shirts and jackets over printed palazzos; printed shorts over loose-fitting pants and floor skimming kaftan broken by a belt were the highlights of the collection.
This designer’s ode to lines was safe, simple and unsurprising. The hemlines were high – with some dresses ending dangerously below the thigh, leaving many wondering how such outfits will fare with a Pakistani buyer.
Faiza’s Marvi, inspired by Sindhi folktale, used the colours of Tharparker in an unimaginative fashion. The collection seemed inspired by FnkAsia’s collection for FPW4 last year, and brought nothing new with Sindhi mirror-worked bodices and patchwork coats.
Designer duo Deepak and Fahad have evolved from their previous Keffiyeh collection. At FPW5, the young men showcased their collection titled Metalistic, inspired by the international trend of metal studs on jackets, coat lapels, pockets and shirt fronts. In murky and nude brown hues, DnF put together studded shirts and waistcoats for men, with dresses, jumpsuits and cropped jackets for the ladies.
Now this collection made many sit up in their seats — but more out of bewilderment than appreciation. Mona Imran’s Safari collection used animal prints in dresses, jumpsuits, capri pants, palazzos and jackets. The dresses were styled differently, with one Wilma Flinstone-inspired hemline with a plunging neckline revealing a risqué bikini top inside.
Orient’s Spring Summer 2013 collection was a routine lawn show on the ramp. The embroidered galas, borders and buttons on simple kurtas were nothing out of the ordinary. But the prints were attractive with one in jazzy black and white lines standing out.
The collection titled Denimology use denim and black embroidery with little imagination. The motifs were nothing out of the ordinary, with men’s jackets and short women’s kurtas having embroidered fronts. The look Emraan seemed to be going for was a safe, non-fussed play on denim.