The name “Maheen” is synonymous with impeccable cut, elegant design and a fresh look. In other words, the designs of Maheen Khan speak for themselves and so successfully no last name is required.
The friendly silver haired designer lights up at the thought of her work and enjoys quiet moments spent sitting with her karighars and watching a garment she designed come to life. Her clothes are renowned for their quality and finish. As the styles are chic and timeless, some of her clients are planning to open a Maheen seconds store. In the meanwhile, to the thrill of clients and fans, Maheen herself has reopened her Clifton flagship store after eight long years. In celebration of the exciting moment in her career, the designer talks with Fashion Collection about her love of her work and her love of life.
What is your design philosophy?
I design for the complete woman, one who is totally focused on her family, her career and her fiends. She needs a power suit in the day and glamour in the evenings and excitement all the time.
You have been quite a pioneer in the fashion industry. How did your career start?
I first opened a tailoring shop in the early seventies in Lahore entitled Seamstress. I had already been tailoring from my back veranda for a couple of years. It was really an informal education of sorts. It has always been a very hands-on experience. I taught myself as I went along and learnt from anyone and everyone who came my way who knew something of cutting and draughting. Cutting a garment to as near perfection as possible, and designing for that complete woman has been my main focus and still is.
So much attention these days is given to our fashion schools and the importance of formal fashion education, do you believe it is essential to have classroom training to be a designer?
A formal fashion education is great to learn and perfect your technical skills but no one can teach you how to design. You either have it or you don’t! Internationally, some of the greatest designers have had no fashion education at all starting with Coco Channel!!
My training has been the best. A ‘shagirdy’ with tailors and cutters in Lahore and Karachi combined with a burning desire to perfect my skills and a natural feel for fabrics, colors and textures. Then, I fine-tuned my skills with the help of two French designers who own the Dubai-based fashion house Aruchi.
Do you Enjoy Being A Fashion Designer?
I live, breathe and dreamt it!
What are your hobbies?
I love my books. I spend any spare time I have polishing old or new chairs into fashion colors! Then there is the beach! I definitely could be a beach bum! However, above all, I treasure my time spent with my grand son Esah.
Are Your Designs A Reflection Of Your Own Personality?
Neither can be taken in isolation. A good cut makes you into a great master-cutter, color and embroidery highlight your textile skills, a beautifully rendered sketch says
You are a great artist and stylist, but put them all together, add a bit of magic and you have a great designer!
How do you see yourself as different from other designer?
The Maheen label pioneers fashion! My team and I design and create without any outside influences whatsoever. I like to feel we lead and we inspire others. We were the first to introduce the tight Capri trousers with a slit on the side, we created the half-sari and so forth! I’ve done it all and before anyone else.
You are known to be the first designer to introduce concept of “separates” in Pakistan and it seems that now other designers are following your trend. What inspired you to do this?
When I started my shop, I gave women many options for shalwars and different options for kameez. I tried to get my clients to incorporate some excitement into their lives with clothes, to show them they can create their own fashion. They don’t have to let fashion dictate to them! A little tip I give to all my Pakistani customers is DO NOT hang your clothes as an outfit, but as separates. The minute you do that, your wardrobe is multiplied by four times! It’s very simple but it works.
Not many people know that you also run a very successful embroidery house. What sort of work do you do there?
With my partner London-based costume designer Diane Holmes, I run an embroidery house that has created period embroidery for costumes of theatre production in Vienna, Amsterdam and London. I am currently working on the sets for Oliver Stone’s new movie
Alexander the Great. I am responsible for bringing to life historic embroidered banners, flags, tents and other tapestries for the great conqueror’s army. This is my most exciting and extensive undertaking to date.
Has your life changed after your success & how?
I am very down to earth and have never conformed to any rules. You might say I’m a rebel of sorts. I still run out of the house looking like a rag-bag. The difference is now someone stops me and says. Aap Maheen hain?
Why did you shut down your store eight years ago?
I walked into the shop one day and hated everything I saw and immediately and impulsively closed it down. I had become complacent. Maheen had become too commercial.
What made you decide to reopen the flagship store?
It was time, reopening the boutique has given new excitement and energy to my life and work.
What are your goals? Short and long-term?
To reach out to all those homes where women sit looking through magazines, searching for a sense of style. To go national and international.
What is your motto in life?
To make the most of every moment and take it one day at a time.
Who is your favorite designer & why?
Dolce & Gabbana because they are crazy and exciting and wonderfully creative.
Which outfit that you have designed and for whom is your favorite work so far?
The black Shahpur Sherwani I designed in 1991 for Salman Ahmed of Junoon which last became his signature.
Do you do anything in addition to fashion designing?
I would like to give back something to the industry, so my doors are open to all young aspiring designers. Currently, I am on the Board of Governors of the Lux Style Awards and am working towards making it into an award all designers, models, stylists and
photographers would be proud to receive.
What about you would people be surprised to learn?
I am a great cook!
How do you like to spend a lazy Sunday?
On the beach.
What is the secret of your success?
A sense of style but above all, plain sweat.